Getting around Tokyo by subway and rail

I've been to Japan several times - long enough between visits that I have had to re-learn the language, customs and survival skills each time.  For many people, it's a little scary.  I love the challenge.

The most recent time there was an added twist - I with accompanied by my wife, a wide-eyed Gaijin (Japanese for "White Devil" - or more crudely, "Barbarian") visiting for the first time.  But one of the reasons I love my wife is that she is unafraid, adventurous and outgoing.

How you'll be getting around is a big consideration when traveling anywhere, unless you're part of an organized group (which we avoid like the plague).  It's far more so when considering travel to Japan, especially one of the big cities like Osaka or Tokyo.  The language is not just different for us Westerners, it's alien.  There are no less than three written languages.  The sheer density of the place leads to a complex rats-nest of interlocking transit options.

The many transit lines form a virtual maze of tracks near Tokyo Station

Be not afraid, Westerner.  It's challenging and overwhelming at first, but easy to figure out when you adopt the right attitude.  And you'll marvel at the effectiveness and efficiency at moving such huge numbers of people around.  (And it's clean, safe and reliable!)

Trains run at most every five minutes, at least 5 AM to midnight

As you probably know, rail is the primary mode of transit within the country.  There are two things you really need to know:

1. There are two types of rail:  Regional and local (which can be street level, elevated or subway).   Regional can either be high-speed (bullet trains) or what us Americans consider high-speed.
2. There are multiple rail companies that operate interconnecting lines.  Even within Tokyo, there are multiple local rail and subway companies (one of which has always been more useful to me).  There is no one map that will tell you everything, especially if your plans include leaving Tokyo proper.  You should have at least the JR (Japan Rail) maps and Tokyo Subway map.  I have a link to major system maps at the end of this post.

A local JR line passes through a neighborhood in Tokyo

One other thing I'll let you know right away.  Unless you (improbably) are traveling somewhere without rail access, don't even think about renting a car.  If you do, you'll face streets ranging from this:

To this:

A typical intersection in Shibuya (Tokyo)

Maybe you've heard how crowded and claustrophobic Tokyo subways can be.  But don't panic!  Avoid morning and evening rush hours and you'll enjoy the journey -- almost always finding a seat.  This is about the most crowded you can expect during other hours:

On board the Shinjuku line

There are two major Tokyo subway companies, Tokyo Metro and Toei. Their combined 14 routes are largely within the central Tokyo area and overlap and intersect in lots of places.  Japan Rail (JR East) operates a large number of rail lines (largely above-ground) which can take you longer distances - well into many outlying areas.

What you do need to know:

1. Many subway stations are not handicap-friendly.  During my most recent visit, I saw several that did not seem to have access at all to the platforms - sometimes several stories underground.
2. Transfers between Toei and Metro are possible, but most riders must purchase a second ticket when boarding their connection.
3. For the most part, Toei, JR and Tokyo Metro do not share stations, but they're often within walking distance of each other.

The systems are complex.  Here's a thumbnail of the overall Tokyo system (link  to full maps belowbelow):

But again, don't panic!  It's manageable once you choose your start and destination stations (remember that there are often several ways to get there, all at the same price).

Signs are in Japanese and English

The Tokyo subways (I have largely stuck to Tokyo Metro; there is a lot of redundancy in their stations, but Metro has more lines to choose from) are easy to navigate:

1. Get a map and study it.  (Remember, the Metro map won't show Toei lines.)
2. Identify your start and finish stations, and pick the best line(s) to get you there.  Don't worry about making a specific transfer time - the trains come very frequently.  Lines are color-coded and also have an identifying letter.
3. Take a deep breath.  There will be a lot of hustle and bustle - you're best to take your time and enjoy the sensory overload.  Signs and announcements will be in both Japanese and English.
4. Find your way to your starting station and locate the ticket machines.
5. Look up!  There will be a graphical map that shows the cost to travel to your destination.  At this time you don't need to worry about transfers.
6. The ticket machine will give you a chance to use English.  Put the required amount (or more) into the machine and identify your number of tickets.  The machine will dispense change and your ticket(s).
7. Look at your map again.  You need to know the name of your line and the major stops on it.
8. Now's the hard part!  Many stations have more than one line, and each line goes two directions.  Once you find a sign directing you to your line, make sure the stop(s) indicated on that sign are in the direction you want to go.  (Many times, your stop won't be listed, just one or two major stops.)
9. There you go!  Navigate to the platform.  You will pass through a gate that will require (and return) your ticket.  Once at the platform, digital signs should indicate how long until the next train (usually only a few minutes).  Make sure one more time you are heading in the right direction!
10. If you are transferring, you won't have to leave the "zone" inside the payment gates.  Hang on to your ticket.
11. On arrival at your destination, your ticket is required to exit.  If you've underpaid, you will be prompted to return to a payment machine.

Inside Ikebukuro Station on a typical day

Be careful about asking for help buying your ticket!  Many Japanese feel obligated to try to help and won't admit it they have no clue or can't understand you.  Most of the employees aren't trained to handle Westerners.  Often if you stand near the ticket machine and look overtly confused for a few minutes, someone who speaks English will offer to help you.

One-day passes are offered as part of some travel packages - be aware that there are major exclusions.

As for JR, it's for longer distances, often to the "suburbs" of Tokyo such as Takasaki, and has been of little use to me in Tokyo proper.  I find the machines to be confusing compared to the subway lines.

I love the subway and train stations  too.  Tokyo Station (as you might guess, the central station, connecting subway, JR local rail and the Shinkansen bullet trains) is like a small city, complete with shopping malls, entertainment and more.  It partially sits under a huge conference center known as the "Glass Building"  Note that due to the size of the stations, many have exits separated by up to a mile.  If you plan to return via the same station, be sure to pay attention to which of the many exits you are leaving by.

Here are maps of the main lines:

JR East (Tokyo lines)
Tokyo Metro and Toei
Tokyo Metro and Toei (.pdf)
Easiest to read map of central Tokyo


Coming soon:  A post about the very, very sexy Shinkansen (Bullet Train):

The Shinkansen approaching Tokyo Station from Osaka